This is my post today because we just finished demolishing a kitchen in Westwood/Century City area. The pictures posted are all from today's demolition. If you are thinking of doing your own demolition, here is what you will need:
Goggles
Dust Mask
Gloves
Ear plugs
Hammer
An Even Bigger Hammer
Screwdrivers
Channel Locks
Pry bar
Electrical Voltage Tester
Electrical Wire Twist Caps (if any appliances are hard wired)
Small bucket, small tub, or a big pot (like one you would cook stew in)
5/8" or 1/2" Caps for your angle stops under your sink in case you have old valves and they fail to close
Step One - Turning off the electrical, water, and gas
Electrical
Locate the electrical service panel and either turn everything off or make sure you turn switches off as you need to. If you do not know when you "need to", then I suggest you either turn everything off or stop right here and hire a licensed contractor.
Water
Locate a valve that will turn off your water. Most free standing homes have two shut off valves, a "main" that is often times located in the parkway and a second shut off valve along the exterior of the house, usually connected to an exterior faucet (where you can attach a garden hose). Not all homes are the same of course.
Gas
Locate the gas shut off valve either at the gas meter (usually right before the meter and the handle has a rectangular nub) or where the gas line first enters the house. A gas shut off valve will be located before it is connected to any appliance. Open gas valves are indicated with the handle parallel to the gas line and perpendicular to the gas line when closed.
The Risk Involved
You may not need to turn off your water and gas, but it is important that you know where they are in case there is a leak caused by your demolition. This is one reason why one would hire a licensed contractor that is bonded and insured. Many demolitions have ended up with a house being flooded. Twice we had a tiny 4"x4" backsplash tile slice right through a water supply line and taking the valve completely off. By the time we shut off the water, there was easily a good two inches of water in the kitchen.
Step Two - Disconnecting everything under your sink
Dishwasher and Disposer
Unplug the disposer and dishwasher. If they are hard wired, go to the electrical service panel and turn off the corresponding switch or turn off the main before you disconnect. Use a voltage tester to make sure the wires are not "live." Use electrical wire twist caps on all loose wires and tape them up to make sure no wires are exposed or at risk of touching each other. Being shocked is no joke. If someone is in the middle of being shocked and they can not let go of whatever it is that is driving electrical current through their body, do not touch them! If you do touch them, the electrical current will go through you and you too will also be electrocuted! Every once in awhile you will hear about this happening to people, usually on the evening news.
Disconnecting Water Supply and Drain Tips
Turn off the valves of the water supply lines under your sink (turn the angle stops to the off position). Check if the valves are really off by turning on the faucet, both hot and cold positions. Disconnect the hoses at the angle stops and make sure the valves are not leaking. Cap them off if they are leaking, If you don't have a cap, sometimes you can reconnect the hose and have it leak into your drain line. This is just a short term, temporary set up, until a plumber can properly cap off the water supply lines or put new valves that do really shut off. Always keep a small bucket around to catch any existing water in the hoses. Once the water lines are off, along with the electrical, you can remove the disposer, dishwasher, and faucet. You will naturally disassemble the drain while you are removing the disposer. The drain assembly, especially the "U-shaped" trap will emit some of the most rotten stank you will ever encounter in your life. Have a change of clothes ready in case you get some stank drain juice on you. Unfortunately, I am speaking from experience.
Step Three - Disconnecting Appliances
Dishwasher and Disposer
Unplug the disposer and dishwasher. If they are hard wired, go to the electrical service panel and turn off the corresponding switch or turn off the main before you disconnect. Use a voltage tester to make sure the wires are not "live." Use electrical wire twist caps on all loose wires and tape them up to make sure no wires are exposed or at risk of touching each other. Being shocked is no joke. If someone is in the middle of being shocked and they can not let go of whatever it is that is driving electrical current through their body, do not touch them! If you do touch them, the electrical current will go through you and you too will also be electrocuted! Every once in awhile you will hear about this happening to people, usually on the evening news.
Disconnecting Water Supply and Drain Tips
Turn off the valves of the water supply lines under your sink (turn the angle stops to the off position). Check if the valves are really off by turning on the faucet, both hot and cold positions. Disconnect the hoses at the angle stops and make sure the valves are not leaking. Cap them off if they are leaking, If you don't have a cap, sometimes you can reconnect the hose and have it leak into your drain line. This is just a short term, temporary set up, until a plumber can properly cap off the water supply lines or put new valves that do really shut off. Always keep a small bucket around to catch any existing water in the hoses. Once the water lines are off, along with the electrical, you can remove the disposer, dishwasher, and faucet. You will naturally disassemble the drain while you are removing the disposer. The drain assembly, especially the "U-shaped" trap will emit some of the most rotten stank you will ever encounter in your life. Have a change of clothes ready in case you get some stank drain juice on you. Unfortunately, I am speaking from experience.
Step Three - Disconnecting Appliances
Disconnecting a gas line to a range, cooktop, oven, etc.
For any gas line, make sure you locate the valve and turn it to the off position. Slowly twist off the hose and listen/smell for any gas leaking. Built-in ovens often times have the valve behind a drawer box below it. Gas cooktops have valves in the same cabinet right below or sometimes one cabinet over. Just follow the gas line and it will lead you to the valve. A slide in range for free standing range usually have valves directly behind it. You have to pull them out to get to it.
Uninstalling Appliances
A built-in oven is usually mounted by some screws that are located in the jamb of the oven door. Sometimes they are mounted by screws hidden by a "trim-kit" so you have to remove the trim-kit first. Built-in ovens are heavy, so get someone to help you pull it out. Cooktops are usually mounted by clips underneath. These clips are screwed tight so the outside edges are clamped down against the counter surface. Loosen the clips from the bottom side and the cooktop should lift right up. The dishwasher typically has two screws, right above the door. Open the dishwasher door and you will see them. Sometimes there are screws in the jamb of the dishwasher door.
For any gas line, make sure you locate the valve and turn it to the off position. Slowly twist off the hose and listen/smell for any gas leaking. Built-in ovens often times have the valve behind a drawer box below it. Gas cooktops have valves in the same cabinet right below or sometimes one cabinet over. Just follow the gas line and it will lead you to the valve. A slide in range for free standing range usually have valves directly behind it. You have to pull them out to get to it.
Uninstalling Appliances
A built-in oven is usually mounted by some screws that are located in the jamb of the oven door. Sometimes they are mounted by screws hidden by a "trim-kit" so you have to remove the trim-kit first. Built-in ovens are heavy, so get someone to help you pull it out. Cooktops are usually mounted by clips underneath. These clips are screwed tight so the outside edges are clamped down against the counter surface. Loosen the clips from the bottom side and the cooktop should lift right up. The dishwasher typically has two screws, right above the door. Open the dishwasher door and you will see them. Sometimes there are screws in the jamb of the dishwasher door.
The vent hood or microwave-hood combination units are screwed into the cabinet or through the cabinet. First you would need to disconnect the electrical. If hard wired, follow the same steps as described above. Next you will need to disassemble the ducting if there is one. A properly vented unit should have sheet metal screws connecting sheet metal ducting throughout the entire exhaust system with a wrap of duct tape to seal the seams. You would have to remove the duct tape and take out all the screws to disassemble the exhaust ducting system. A very poorly installed venting system uses some type of accordion-soft-flex hose (plastic or aluminum, usually aluminum) with slits cut into it to rig as adapters and delicately sculpted with duct tape as it connects to whatever shape the receiving male end may be. You can just rip these apart with your bare hands! If the hood vent you are removing belonged to a family that loved to fry foods, stir fry foods, or burned up bacon/sausage to a charred crisp, then you will want to wear some gloves (perhaps disposable gloves). Keep a small bucket around in case you want to throw up. Make sure you have a helper to bring the unit down.
Before you disconnect the refrigerator water line (aka ice maker line), make sure it is not a long weekend and you can also easily get a plumber the same day, just in case turning off the water is inconvenient or impossible. These small water lines are notorious for getting pinched, causing it to leak or sometimes they are just old and want to leak. As soon as you move them ever so slightly, they will start leaking.
Step Four - Demolishing the Countertop
Laminate counters (including Corian) or butcher block counters are usually attached by screws through the top of the base cabinet. I usually do not bother removing the screws, but just pull them right off like the Incredible Hulk would. You will be surprised how easy they come apart. Sometimes a pry bar will do the trick. Personally, I hate going inside any cabinet to remove any screws, especially when I have to lay on my back. So try the "Incredible Hulk" method, but make sure not to hurt your back or don't try it if you have a bad back.
Tile counters and granite counters (or any solid stone counter) can be broken up to small pieces. Put on your gloves, goggles, dust mask, and ear plugs. Grab the big hammer and swing away. You will naturally figure out what works, but when in doubt, just keep swinging at it. Swing at it while releasing deeply buried childhood demons that you never knew you had. Sometimes a pry bar can help you remove the debris in larger pieces. Tile counters may have re-bar, metal mesh, or chicken wire embedded in the mortar. Be really careful around this metal because they have edges like sharp razor blades. Handle this debris with thick, heavy duty gloves. You can also cut the metal mesh, chicken wire with some wire cutters (side cutters, diagonal pliers, diags, or dikes). I like to haul out these heavy debris pieces using drawer boxes since they need to be thrown out too. Trash bags are usually not strong enough for this type of heavy and sharp debris. Larry loves the round Brute trash cans with the detachable dolly.
Step Five - Demolishing the Cabinets
In 1999, Michael Bolton, Peter Gibbons, and Samir Nagheenanajad ruthlessly shredded a fax machine to little pieces by punches, kicks, and a Louisville Slugger. This is the only attitude to have when you demolish a kitchen. Much like the stone or tile countertop removal and a little bit of the Incredible Hulk method, I want you to release those inner demons again. Whether it is from mom not letting you pitch in little league or all the kids at school calling you E.T., or how much you hate those T.P.S. reports, swing that hammer hard while revisiting those inner demons! Your kitchen will be beaten to a pulp in no time. Just remember to wear your goggles, gloves, dust mask, and ear plugs! "Say hello to Lumbergh for me!"
Laminate counters (including Corian) or butcher block counters are usually attached by screws through the top of the base cabinet. I usually do not bother removing the screws, but just pull them right off like the Incredible Hulk would. You will be surprised how easy they come apart. Sometimes a pry bar will do the trick. Personally, I hate going inside any cabinet to remove any screws, especially when I have to lay on my back. So try the "Incredible Hulk" method, but make sure not to hurt your back or don't try it if you have a bad back.
Tile counters and granite counters (or any solid stone counter) can be broken up to small pieces. Put on your gloves, goggles, dust mask, and ear plugs. Grab the big hammer and swing away. You will naturally figure out what works, but when in doubt, just keep swinging at it. Swing at it while releasing deeply buried childhood demons that you never knew you had. Sometimes a pry bar can help you remove the debris in larger pieces. Tile counters may have re-bar, metal mesh, or chicken wire embedded in the mortar. Be really careful around this metal because they have edges like sharp razor blades. Handle this debris with thick, heavy duty gloves. You can also cut the metal mesh, chicken wire with some wire cutters (side cutters, diagonal pliers, diags, or dikes). I like to haul out these heavy debris pieces using drawer boxes since they need to be thrown out too. Trash bags are usually not strong enough for this type of heavy and sharp debris. Larry loves the round Brute trash cans with the detachable dolly.
Step Five - Demolishing the Cabinets
In 1999, Michael Bolton, Peter Gibbons, and Samir Nagheenanajad ruthlessly shredded a fax machine to little pieces by punches, kicks, and a Louisville Slugger. This is the only attitude to have when you demolish a kitchen. Much like the stone or tile countertop removal and a little bit of the Incredible Hulk method, I want you to release those inner demons again. Whether it is from mom not letting you pitch in little league or all the kids at school calling you E.T., or how much you hate those T.P.S. reports, swing that hammer hard while revisiting those inner demons! Your kitchen will be beaten to a pulp in no time. Just remember to wear your goggles, gloves, dust mask, and ear plugs! "Say hello to Lumbergh for me!"
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